My wife wanted the beach. I wanted to drive.
We argued about it for two weeks. She wanted Hilton Head. I wanted Wyoming. She said sand. I said mountains. We flipped a coin.
I won.
Seven days later, I was standing at a pullout on Teton Park Road, looking at a wall of granite and snow that went straight up for 7,000 feet. My wife was next to me. She hadn’t said a word in five minutes.
Then she turned and said, “Okay. You were right.”
Best six words of my marriage.
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01. WHY THIS TRIP
Yellowstone and Grand Teton sit side by side in northwest Wyoming. You can drive between them in an hour. Together, they cover about 3,500 square miles of mountains, rivers, hot springs, canyons, and wildlife you’ll see from the road.
No passport. No overseas flight. No jet lag. You fly into Jackson Hole—the airport is inside Grand Teton National Park, which is worth the trip by itself—rent a truck, and drive.
3,500
SQUARE MILES
TWO PARKS
7 days
THE RIGHT AMOUNT
OF TIME
$35
PARK ENTRY
PER VEHICLE
September and early October are the sweet spot. The summer crowds are gone. The elk are bugling. The aspens are turning gold. The air is cool and the roads are clear.
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02. HOW I’D DO IT IN SEVEN DAYS
DAY 1
Arrive in Jackson. Fly into Jackson Hole Airport. Pick up the rental. Walk the town square. Get a steak at a place that doesn’t have a TV behind the bar. Go to bed early. The next six days will earn it.
DAY 2
Grand Teton. Drive Teton Park Road north. Stop at every pullout. Jenny Lake is where you’ll want to stay the longest—take the boat across and hike to Hidden Falls. The Snake River Overlook is the spot Ansel Adams made famous. You’ll see why.
DAY 3
Into Yellowstone. Lower loop. Drive north into Yellowstone. Hit the Grand Prismatic Spring first—get there before 10 a.m. for the best light. Then Old Faithful. Stay in the area. Old Faithful Lodge is simple and close to everything.
DAY 4
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The upper and lower falls are the highlight of the whole park. Walk to Artist Point. Look down into the canyon. The colors in the rock walls are something you can’t get from a photo. Spend the afternoon in Hayden Valley watching bison.
DAY 5
Lamar Valley. This is the day. Get up at dawn and drive to Lamar Valley. Bring binoculars. You’ll see bison, elk, pronghorn, and if you’re patient, wolves. I sat on a hill for two hours watching a herd of elk cross a river. The guides call it the Serengeti of North America.
On day six, drive to Mammoth Hot Springs. The terraces look like another planet. Then head south through the park one last time. Stop wherever you want. No schedule. That’s the point.
Day seven is easy. One more morning in Jackson. Walk the elk antler arches. Grab breakfast. Drive to the airport. Look at the Tetons one more time before you board.
“I’ve been to 30 countries. This was better than most of them.”
03. WHAT IT COSTS
Flights to Jackson Hole (round trip)
$300–$600
Rental truck, 7 days
$350–$560
Lodging, 6 nights (mix of park and town)
$1,200–$2,000
Park entry (both parks, 7 days)
$35
Food and drink, 7 days
$280–$490
Gas
$100–$150
Total for two people
$3,500–$5,500
05. A QUESTION I GET ASKED
Q. Do I need to be in good shape for this?
A. You don’t need to hike a mountain. Most of the best views are from pullouts along the road. Jenny Lake has a short, flat trail. The canyon overlooks are paved. If you can walk a mile on flat ground, you can do this trip. The parks are built for cars as much as boots.
06. WHY I’M GOING BACK
I’ve thought about that pullout on Teton Park Road more than any beach I’ve ever sat on. The granite. The silence. My wife standing there with nothing to say because nothing needed to be said.
We didn’t flip a coin this year. She suggested Wyoming before I could.
That’s the thing about this trip. It doesn’t wear off. Six months later I was still looking at the photos. Not the ones on my phone. The ones in my head. The bison crossing the road at dawn. The steam rising off the river in Hayden Valley. My wife’s face at that first pullout when the Tetons filled the windshield.
Some trips you take once. This one pulls you back.
— Walter
P.S. Have you done Yellowstone or Grand Teton? Or is it on the list? Hit reply and tell me your favorite spot—or the trip that made your spouse admit you were right.
