Three friends went last year. My wife’s book club wouldn’t stop talking about it. I kept hearing the same word. Portugal.
I didn’t get it. I’d been to France. I’d been to Italy. I’d been to Spain. Portugal felt like a footnote. The small country at the end of Europe that nobody used to mention.
My wife booked the flights without asking. Seven days. I got on the plane a little annoyed.
I landed in Lisbon. Took a cab to the hotel. Walked into a restaurant on a narrow street in a neighborhood called Alfama. Sat down. Ordered grilled fish, a glass of white wine, and a plate of potatoes.
The bill was 14 euros. For both of us.
By the end of that meal, I understood.
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01. WHY IT WORKS
Portugal is what Italy was 20 years ago. Beautiful. Affordable. Full of food that makes you close your eyes. And the locals haven’t gotten tired of tourists yet. They’re still happy to see you.
The country runs on simple things done well. Fresh seafood. Local wine. Tile-covered buildings that look like art. And a pace that makes you wonder why you ever rush.
$12–$18
FULL LUNCH
WITH WINE
$80–$160
MID-RANGE
HOTEL PER NIGHT
90 days
NO VISA NEEDED
FOR AMERICANS
02. HOW I’D DO SEVEN DAYS
DAYS 1–3
Lisbon. Start in Alfama. Walk the narrow streets. Ride the old tram if you want, but walking is better. Eat at every small restaurant you see. The daily lunch special is usually three courses with wine for $12 to $18. On day three, take the 40-minute train to Sintra. A hillside town with old palaces that look like they belong in a fairy tale. Go early. Skip the crowds.
DAYS 4–5
Porto. Take the fast train north. It’s under three hours and costs about $30. Porto is quieter than Lisbon. The river runs through the center. Cross the bridge and visit a port wine cellar. The tastings are $10 to $20 and they don’t rush you. The riverfront at sunset is one of the best things I’ve seen in Europe.
DAYS 6–7
The Algarve. Fly from Porto to Faro for about $50. Rent a car and drive to Lagos. Gold cliffs. Sea caves. Water so blue it doesn’t look real. The Algarve is a beach coast that hasn’t been paved over. Stay two nights. Eat grilled sardines on the waterfront. End the trip with sand between your toes.
“I’ve eaten at a lot of places. Portugal is the only country where the $14 meal was better than the $80 one.”
03. WHAT IT COSTS
Flights from the US (round trip, two people)
$900–$1,800
Hotels, 7 nights (mid-range)
$560–$1,120
Food and drink, 7 days
$350–$560
Trains and local flights
$120–$200
Total for two people
$2,500–$4,200
04. WHAT I WOULD NOT DO
▸ Don’t go in July or August. It’s hot and crowded. September and October are perfect. Warm days. Cool nights. Half the tourists.
▸ Don’t rent a car in Lisbon or Porto. The streets are narrow. Parking is a nightmare. Walk or take a cab. Save the rental for the Algarve.
▸ Don’t skip the daily lunch special. Every local restaurant has one. Three courses, a drink, sometimes dessert. It’s the best deal in Europe and the food is better than most $50 dinners back home.
05. A QUESTION I GET ASKED
Q. Is it safe?
A. Safer than most of the places I’ve traveled. Lisbon is a walking city. Porto is laid back. The Algarve is a beach town. Petty theft happens in tourist areas like anywhere, but violent crime is rare. I walked the streets at night and never thought twice.
06. WHY I’M GOING BACK
I got on the plane annoyed. My wife had booked the trip without asking. I didn’t think Portugal had anything I hadn’t already seen somewhere else.
Seven days later, I sat at a waterfront table in Lagos watching the sun go down over the Atlantic. The fish was grilled 20 minutes after it came off the boat. The wine was local and cost less than a bottle of water in Manhattan.
My wife looked at me and said, “You’re welcome.”
She was right. Again.
Portugal isn’t a footnote. It’s the best-kept open secret in Europe. And the $14 lunch will ruin you for everywhere else.
— Walter
P.S. Have you been to Portugal? Is it on your list? Hit reply and tell me your favorite spot. Or tell me I’m wrong. I can take it.
